The Bon Vivant Food and Wine Blog

Where the bloody hell are we?

Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:34:49 +1000

Hello there loyal Bon Vivants!

Some of you may be wondering where Danny and I have gotten to…

Without giving too much away, we feel you should know that there are some new and different things in store for us. More will be revealed in the not too distant future!

Exciting things are happening in both our lands and we look forward to sharing them with you all soon!

Thanks for the patience and general curiosity!

WATCH THIS SPACE!

Becca

thebonvivantblog@gmail.com

Freda's - Opening Night!

Tue, 01 Nov 2011 22:33:22 +1100

Becca Johnstone

Freda’s

109 Regent Street

Chippendale

Last Wednesday night saw fab new bar Freda’s officially open it’s doors for the first time. Danny and I were lucky enough to attend with a bunch of our mates to celebrate this auspicious occasion. Freda’s is the beloved baby of Simon Cancio, Marty Campaign and Ibrahim Kasif. The boys will be slinging high quality sandwiches during the day and at night Freda’s the bar comes alive, with bangin’ cocktails and tasty Mediterranean morsels to match.

Now there will be a full Freda’s write up in the coming weeks, but for us Wednesday night was all about celebration. I did manage to bring the trusty camera along however, so please take a look and enjoy the little photo journey that was the opening night of Freda’s! And more importantly get down and check it out yourselves, these guys are open every day (the saying ‘no rest for the wicked’ springs to mind!). They are really easy to find too (I won’t bring up my poor direction giving to some friends… there’s really no need) - look for the giant tongue (not a set of lips, as I assumed it was in my ‘Brooklyn’ state of mind) on Regent Street, then go down the little driveway - BOOM, you’re there! Order a Brooklyn, the superb pickled octopus and for God’s sake, mop up everything with some of the best bread in Sydney - so delicious!

Beautiful Freda’s - who doesn’t love open beams?

I don’t think there’s much more comforting than a really well stocked bar…

Chef, Ibrahim Kasif, doing what he does best.

The Brooklyn aka Becca’s Ruin: Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey, Luxardo Maraschino, Rosso and house-made amer picon.

Cocktail master Marty mixing a Brooklyn for yours truly.

Happy diners, being oh so happy!

Even more happy diners - a good lookin’ crowd at Freda’s that’s for sure.

Warm trout salad.

Pickled octopus.

Smoked eggplant salad.

Arguably the happiest of diners - so many smiles!

What Freda’s is all about - good people, with good drinks, sharing good food.

Smoked mussels - our table’s favourite, unbeatable with a chunk of bread.

From what we saw at Freda’s the other night it is going to be the hotspot over summer, so get in now before all the hipsters find it! Chef Ibrahim Kasif is on Twitter, so get following kids. Freda’s can be found on Facebook also. Don’t forget to check back in a couple of weeks for the full Freda’s experience as seen through the eyes of this Bon Vivant. Viva Freda’s!

Have you been to Freda’s yet? Let us know what you think on Twitter or feel free to shoot me an email, becca@thebonvivant.com.au. All of these photos, plus many others are also up on our Facebook, so feel free to pop in and say hello.

Vine Press Tasting - By Farr, Lost Valley, Gosset

Tue, 25 Oct 2011 00:39:43 +1100

Becca Johnstone

As I wandered down Castlereagh Street a couple of weeks ago I was feeling particularly spritely. Was it the new Bettie Page dress I was sporting? Or perhaps the 4 or so ristretti I’d downed that afternoon? My eyes wandered to a group of, let’s call them ladies, so scantily clad it would have made Ke$ha consider covering up. With those raised hemlines I had figured out the reason for my jauntiness: spring is here! Affirmed, I made my way to the Celebration of Spring tasting being put on by The Vine Press at The Castlereagh Boutique Hotel.

On show were a fantastic array of wines from Gosset, Lost Valley and the undoubted Kings of the night, By Farr. It was a very different wine tasting crowd to what I’m used to – perhaps I’ve been out of the corporate game too long (being the only girl in a 50’s dress, clutching a giant Nikon in a room full of suits is quite daunting). I confess, the excitement value was upped a notch when I realised the hotel was actually part of the NSW Masonic Centre. I couldn’t help but think of my 94 year old Masonic Grandfather shaking his fist at me for stepping on such hallowed grounds. And by Jove, if I didn’t come out with material for a preposterously poorly written conspiracy novel (that would no doubt become an international bestseller), then I couldn’t honestly call myself a writer, could I? All digs at Dan Brown aside, check out this fabulous chaise longue…

On arrival we were greeted with a much-welcomed glass of the Gosset Brut Excellence NV ($100), a wine I found really well balanced between lush creaminess and fresh strawberry like acidity. Spending 3 years on lees it really was quite a vibrant little number, but ran just that little bit sweet for me. The real knockout from Gosset, however, was the Grand Reserve MV ($125). It was everything you would expect from the oldest Champagne House in the world - finesse, elegance and far too addictive. A Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunieur blend from the 05, 06 and 07 vintages, it was full of rich peachy flavours and little fresh floral notes coming at you left, right and centre. The combination of 5 years on lees and no malolactic fermentation resulted in a wine of great length and intensity. I confess, I’ve never been a huge lover of Gosset wines (we all know my heart lies with Ruinart), but this Mixed Vintage really won me over.

Leaving France, I made my way to Victorian High Country to sample some of Lost Valley’s wares. It was here the whites really sang. Their 2005 Merlot ($30) was all right, and certainly one of the better Merlots I’ve tried in a while – some really grippy tannins – but just not for me, not at that price point. The 2008 Shiraz ($30) was very Rhone-like and ticked all the cool-climate boxes: dark fruits, white pepper and a few licorice notes. Not bad at all. Interestingly, they had their 2009 Cortese ($30) on show – not a wine I have encountered much in Australia. Piedemontese owner, Robert Ipasso, produced this as a tribute to his homeland. A very aromatic white, with strong stone fruits balanced out by some sharp lemon acidity – intriguing, perhaps not everyone’s cup of tea, but I would easily polish off a bottle (or two). But I am a Riesling gal really, and I was nothing but impressed by this, their first Riesling release. The Lost Valley Riesling 2010 ($20) was beautifully aromatic (so much orange blossom!), had a great zestiness on the palate and finished with that gorgeous minerality that I love so much. At this price, I have to say this wine was the bargain of the night. They say it has cellaring potential for up to 5 years, and it was one I would really like to put away and see how it develops, how honeyed it goes, but just know I wouldn’t be able to control myself!

The stars of the show were definitely the By Farr/Farr Rising wines from Geelong – and that’s not just because winemaker, Nick Farr, is uncomfortably good looking (I’m a girl, sue me)! A family operation, (“Mum does the books, I make the wine, Dad goes fishing,”), By Farr has a strong Burgundian influence in everything they produce, which one would expect, given that Nick and father, Gary have completed over 20 vintages at Domaine Dujac in Morey-St-Denis. Consequently, there is a strong focus on bringing out the best in what their terroir has to offer. For me, this means really earthy, savoury, lipsmackin’ and I daresay, gun-totin’ Pinot Noirs.

We mustn’t overlook their white offerings though! Newsflash: I’ve found a Viognier that I would actually pay decent money for!!! The 2009 By Farr Viogner ($67) is a spicy little number, I’ll give her that. It’s got these great ginger flavours, which bounce really well off the underlying apricot character to it. I really appreciated the fact that it didn’t have that oily texture that average Viognier’s get - borderline zesty I’ll say! The Farr Rising 2009 Chardonnay ($44) was an exceptionally fine wine, and I confess, I preferred it to their premium By Farr Chardonnay 2009 ($74). It really was a beautiful White Burgundy, abounding in stone fruits, cashew creaminess and minerality. Fermented with natural yeast the wine spent just under a year on lees in new French oak – bringing out a marvelous toastiness without becoming overbearing. Just gorgeous!

Coming to the business end of the evening meant only one thing: serious Pinot time. My heart jumped with joy (almost knocking over a spittoon in the process) at the sight of the By Farr Sangreal, Farrside and Tout Pres bottles in front of me. The Farrside 2009 ($76) is the one most ‘Aussie’ in style, that’s for sure – full on fruitiness, but still maintaining that French ‘texture’ if you will. It’s quite ‘big’ for a Pinot, and on the night it was a real crowd pleaser – for me, I’m after a little more earthiness. Brilliant segue to the By Farr Tout Pres 2008 ($120) – did someone say vive la France? This bad boy is super savoury, and you definitely get that before the fruit. It’s gamey, earthy and then rich with cherry sweetness. Supported by some fine tannins and a very subtle introduction of oak, the Tout Pres is really a knockout. Certainly the most well known from By Farr is the Sangreal ($80), given that Halliday has just awarded it 97 points and the “Best of the Best”. It’s uncompromising in it’s intensity and full of tannin, dustiness and spice, all the while backed with rich dark berry fruits. And it has an amazing balance between the fruitiness of the Farrside and the savouriness of the Tout Pres. Perfect fusion of Geelong and Burgundy I’d say. For me, I’d take the in your face Tout Pres over the other two any day of the week, but I can certainly see why the Sangreal is considered one of Australia’s best Pinots.

It was a truly great night and I feel privileged to have tried some of the best home grown Pinots I have ever encountered, even if I didn’t take with me a concept for a bestselling novel. Thank you to Vine Press for hosting such a wonderful evening, and to Alan Conolly and Liz Ramsay for inviting me along!

So where do you sit on the Pinot Noir fence? Fruity for the win or Burgundian gamey? Let us know on Twitter @bonvivantblog, Facebook or feel free to drop me an email becca@thebonvivant.com.au

Low302

Tue, 06 Sep 2011 01:32:00 +1000

Becca Johnstone

302 Crown Street

DARLINGHURST

302 Crown Street. Is it Surry Hills? Is it Darlinghurst? Who knows? Who cares! All one needs to know is that this is the home of the wicked Low302. I confess, Low302 lives in my mind in glorious infamy – there may have been a period a couple of years back where every Friday night either began or ended in this fine establishment. It’s your birthday? We’ll go to Low. Exams have ended/begun/are halfway through? Low302 it is. Your colleague’s sister bought a hamster? Low302, hustle! It’s a trendy spot and you will no doubt see a few of those pesky celebs (or people who wish they were) in there from time to time, but don’t let that deter you. My first ever trip to Low saw me drinking on Daniel Johns’ tab all night after he overheard me utter a horrendous expletive, entirely unbefitting a lady. I occasionally run into him around Darlo and I’m still met with, “HEY! You’re that girl who said #$%! at Low302!” But I digress.

After chatting with friend and Low302 manager, David Hernandez, about their new chef and new direction as a restaurant as well as hot cocktail bar, I knew it was time to revisit this old favourite. Like a fine wine I was glad to see that it had matured well with age. The design and general ambience of the place was still as cool and inviting as ever, with lush leather, hardwood floors and glorious down lighting (a gal’s best friend after a long day). The bar is absolutely stocked with premium spirits and is so damn tempting it fills me with a combination of joy and fear. With a cheeky grin from the bartender, you know this place has mischief written all over it. And with a revolving door of great local live acts and hot DJ’s, chances are you’re going to hear some pretty bangin’ tunes, whichever night you decide to go.

After a tiresome day of being Becca, I decided to meet a dear friend of mine for a few drinks and a bite to eat a couple of weeks ago. The worries of the day were soon washed away with a Creole Gimlet ($16). The ‘Creole’ness was coming from the inclusion of falernum, which added this fabulous dimension of spice. Along with gin, lime juice and lime syrup I found it an interesting take on an old favourite of mine. If you’re feeling fruity give the Cuban Cooler ($18) a go. Served tall, it combines Havana rum, Lairds Applejack Brandy, pomegranate syrup, lime and soda. On a night that didn’t know if it was hot or cold, it made me sit back and dream of summer.

My partner in crime was sticking to beer and the selection at Low is certainly of note. A great mix of local and international, they have some truly fabulous ales on show. The Hitachino White Nest Ale ($12) from Japan is a serious favourite amongst my buddies. Plus there are a couple of great dark ales to tempt you if you’re that way inclined, including the White Rabbit ($8.50) and the Little Creatures Dreadnought Stout ($12.50). The wine list at Low has a bit more of a local feel, of particular note a few seriously impressive Pinot Noirs. If you can splash the cash pick up a bottle of the Hans Herzog ($80) – it may be a Marlborough wine, but it’s liquid gold… don’t tell the Kiwis I said that.

Octopus and Potato Carpaccio

With all these delicious beverages coursing through us, some food was definitely in order. Share plates are, yet again, the name of the game in this neck of the woods. I couldn’t go past the Octopus and Potato Carpaccio ($15), purely out of curiosity. Pressed octopus and just cooked potato are thinly sliced and dressed liberally with preserved lemon, herbs and olive oil – served up with toasted pumpkin bread. It’s a dish of strong flavours, that’s for sure and the crispy bread is essential from a textural standpoint. I thoroughly enjoyed it though, but I respect anyone that gets creative with a cephalopod.

Twice Cooked Tempura Chicken Wings

When it comes to fried chicken, my friends and I consider ourselves somewhat connoisseurs. In this area of the city alone you have a couple of hot contests for the best fried chicken – namely Kenji’s Fried Chicken at Izakaya Fujiyama and of course the delicious treats put forward by the crew at Gardel’s. I can, however, say that the Twice Cooked Tempura Chicken Wings ($11) at Low302 blew both out of the water. Served up with lashings of chipotle mayonnaise, these wings were moist on the inside and incredibly crisp and delicate on the out. Thank the good Lord above that we were served an even number – this dish could tear apart even the best of friends I suspect. Congrats Low302 – you have won the 2011 Surry Hills ‘Dirty Bird’ Award!

Smoked Chilli Crusted Seared Tuna with Tamarind Sauce

From the delicious gluttony of tempura chicken wings we moved on to the ethereal beauty of seared tuna. The highlight of the meal, Low302’s Smoked Chilli Crusted Seared Tuna with Tamarind Sauce ($15) has got to be reason enough alone to pop in for a meal. Seared to perfection, with a fantastic blush of red in the centre, the tuna is not at all lost against the sweet chilli smokiness of its crust. Paired with a zippy tamarind sauce, this plate was gobbled so quickly we contemplated ordering another straight away. Take my advice – do it. David personally recommended this one to us. What can I say? The boy has good taste.

Chocolate Assiette

Not being much of a dessert girl (I’m sweet enough… *boom tish*), it really wasn’t essential to finish our meal with a sweet treat. Not essential, but entirely welcomed! I was very keen to try the Low’s take on the Wagon Wheel – but alas it was not available that night. Must get back to try though – who doesn’t love Wagon Wheels? We eventually settled on the Chocolate Assiette. A combination of dark chocolate ganache, chocolate sorbet and a seriously wicked brownie this dessert is really one for the chocoholics. An incredibly rich thing though, the two of us struggled through it (but we are wimps).

What can I say? I was always going to feel at home in a bar where the motto is ‘Aim high, go low.’ I’m glad to see Low302 is still the welcoming, elegant but always-playful nightspot I remember it to be. Moreover though I was impressed: impressed at the quality little restaurant it’s become. Well done guys, you really are on to winner. A big thanks to David for having us in, gracias hermano! So if you’re looking for a new place to try head to 302 Crown St, Darlinghurst…. Or is it Surry Hills? Aaah hell. Just go.

Been to Low302? What do you think? Let me know on Twitter @bonvivantblog or shoot me an email becca@thebonvivant.com.au And don’t forget to stop by our Facebook to get a few extra tidbits!

Single Origin Roasters - Sideshow

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 03:58:00 +1000

Becca Johnstone

52-58 Reservoir Street

SURRY HILLS

As promised, this week in Bon Vivant land is all about part deux of our Single Origin Roasters 2-fer. Last week it was all about the Café and Chef Matt Rothman’s delicious winter menu, but now it’s time to bring it back to what first sparked my curiosity with this place: glorious, glorious coffee. I make no efforts to hide my straight up caffeine addiction. I daresay that when I gave up coffee for Lent this year I nearly lost my mind. But luckily I soon had the loving arms of the Single Origin Roasters Sideshow to fall in to – a place that is sheer decadence for a real coffee lover.

If you go for a wander down Reservoir Street, just past the Café you might do a double take and think you’ve stumbled upon a rather brazen meth lab (with elegant fittings and less… well… meth). On closer inspection of the Kono syphons and halogen heat lamps you will realize you have stepped into serious coffee territory (just in case you hadn’t noticed the monster espresso machine to your right). Housed in the front part of the Fracks showroom, Sideshow is a purpose-built coffee haven, specializing in Slow Brew methods to help showcase a plethora of single origin beans and of course, doing a roaring takeaway trade. Baristas Joe Cutcliffe and Charles Cameron generously gave up some time to give me the rundown on the ins and outs and the who’s and why’s of the Single Origin Roasters Sideshow.

Having opened up late last year, the 8 metre square space that is Sideshow has been making waves – and not just of the ‘Third’ variety. Arguably one of the best places in Australia (and most certainly Sydney) to experience coffee, the space was custom built for flexibility with no expenses spared on obtaining the finest, best-suited gear for the many extractions on offer. Unlike other boutique coffee establishments around town, there is a strong Japanese influence both in technique and equipment at Sideshow – something that must be attributed to Head Barista, Shoji Sasa and his extensive research. The guys exclusively import Kono syphons and pair them with locally produced, hand blown glass chambers. These balance over a rather nifty halogen heating system that is all about precision, allowing them absolute temperature control. It is a true science – and for a gal that did 12 units of major works and essays for the HSC, it really does wrinkle my brain. The latest addition of an industry-first milk tap, connected to a 20L tank in the fridge, full of farm-direct milk has also been getting quite a bit of attention. Removing plastic bottles from the equation means less stress on the old environment, which in turn means I won’t judge you as harshly for having milk in your coffee. Win/win.

Single Origin Roasters are obviously known for just that: premium, sustainably produced beans from a single origin (and if you’re lucky, a single Estate). While they have a pretty cracking house blend that has seen me through many a boring meeting, the singles and their stories are what intrigue me. Just this week alone my palate has been to Panama, Sumatra, Tanzania and Colombia. The team at Single Origin Roasters is uncompromising on the quality of their beans, it just so happens to be a major bonus for us ethically minded folk that their imports are always some form of certified organic, forest friendly or Fair Trade (and occasionally a combination of all three). In this respect they are certainly echoing a shift in the industry – it’s all about building relationships with the producers. It’s about being hands on, visiting the coffee regions regularly and not just picking up the best beans at the best price, but looking at what they can do for the entire community. Like everything that falls into the sustainable/ethical/happy category, you may pay a little more. But when you consider that 100 people have handled your coffee before it even hits the cup, it truly is a bit of a miracle at $4.

Charles and Joe are examples of a new generation of Baristas – these guys have picked coffee as their career. They are not just a couple of dudes who ‘work in a café’. They are Baristas of the highest quality and all the power to them I say. For the guys down at Sideshow it’s always about quality over attitude, it’s never about the ego. Joe and Charles believe being a good Barista is all about possessing grace under pressure. When push comes to shove though they know that their reputations are dependent on a solid takeaway coffee trade – especially now given Sideshow’s exposure and diverse clientele. On an average day they work through about 10kg of beans each, manage the Slow Brew methods and more often than not educate and explain them to their customers. All the while with a couple of cheeky grins and intimidatingly eclectic iPod selections.

SO what exactly is on offer at Sideshow??? Well aside from your takeaway espresso trade…

Syphon

The syphon method of brewing coffee has been around since the 1800’s and involves heat and vapours and vacuums (oh my!). As the water heats in the lower chamber it travels up a nifty little pipe, and is combined with your tasty coffee. After a bit of stirring and a bit of cooling the end product coffee makes it’s way back down. Well that’s the way I understand it anyway – for all the facts it’s best to ask the guy making it! Shoji very kindly took me through three different singles in a bit of a syphon extravaganza last week (that left me buzzing for hours). For me, the Sumatran was off the chain.

Pour Over

The beauty of a pour over is that it’s effectively all about gravity and heat, and of course the adept skill of a Barista. A filtered style, it’s about the subtle introduction of water at a steady pace. The result is a coffee of great clarity that really brings out all those little nuances you would probably miss in your espresso.

Cold Drip

Cold Drip coffee is just one of those things that I think is pretty rock and roll. And a good starting point perhaps if you’re not too familiar with it all. Coffee is steeped in water and effectively left to drip through a filter overnight. I find it actually quite sweet but remarkably refreshing – perhaps something to do with the fact that it never comes in to contact with heat, which in turn intensifies flavours. In the words of my 15-year-old brother, ‘It’s like coffee flavoured water – but good.’

Aeropress

The guys actually sell these little machines at Sideshow. It was invented by the guy who invented Frisbees (I thought Joseph was lying to me about that one, but you can A Current Affair FACT Stamp that… if you must). It’s similar to a plunger style of brewing but using air and pressure. The guys do things a little differently and actually invert the chambers. What results is a coffee that is lighter in colour but I think more complex in flavour, and with just a bit more clarity and brightness. Pretty nifty if you ask me!

So that’s the who, what, where, how and why of Single Origin Roasters Sideshow. A big thanks to Shoji for a fantastic syphon experience and of course to Joe and Charles for giving up their precious time, knowledge and patience for Miss Becca! You guys are bloody legends. It’s important to note that all of these extractions are available at the cafe also! So next time you’re in Surry Hills head down Reservoir Street, pop in and see the guys and let them rock your caffeinated world.

Been to Sideshow? What’s your favourite brew? Let me know becca@thebonvivant.com.au or on Twitter @bonvivantblog. And don’t forget to check our Facebook – more pictures, more laughs… just more.

Single Origin Roasters - Café

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 21:53:28 +1000

Becca Johnstone

60-64 Reservoir Street

SURRY HILLS

One of the perks of working in Surry Hills at the moment is the ability to step not far out our door and stumble upon ‘one of Sydney’s best’ – be it bars, restaurants, pubs, or in this instance, cafés. Single Origin Roasters is so much more than a café – for that reason this is a bit of a Bon Vivant 2-fer! This week I’ll be focusing on the café and next week you must, must, must check back for an in-depth look at the ‘Sideshow’ – a specialty coffee bar, purpose built to showcase alternative brewing methods to bring out the best in single origin coffees.

Single Origin Roasters (SOR) has become a bit of a rockstar in the coffee scene of late. The work being done in the café, Sideshow, roasting house and wholesale business saw them awarded 3 stars in the SMH Good Café Guide and also picking up a shout for Best Boutique Roaster. I make no secret of the fact that I think this place kicks arse. I tend to be overtly critical of cafés as, in general, I think they kind of suck. It’s difficult to find a place that will simultaneously make a decent long black from good, recently roasted beans and produce something fresh and tasty to eat. And so my love affair with Single Origin Roasters began.

At the end of the day, these kids are serious about their coffee. The Single Origin lot source, roast and blend premium and sustainable beans – never compromising on quality. Chef Matt Rothman echoes these thoughts in his menu, changing seasonally and focusing on local and sustainable produce from some of Sydney’s best suppliers. What has made it for me is that there’s no cumbersome cabinet full of pre-prepared, depressed sandwiches and containers of questionable ‘bircher muesli’. Time and effort is being put in to your food.

In a nutshell the winter menu is just one big old cuddle. With breakfast only running until 11 and my stupid schedule I have actually only managed one brekkie trip (sans camera I’m afraid). It was a ghastly morning too, and the Persian Spiced Baked Beans with Feta and Flatbread ($13.50) were just what the doctor ordered. Aromatic, nourishing, there ain’t nuttin like starting your day with a whack of spice. My dining partner opted for the Ocean Trout, Avocado and Sour Cream Bagel ($13.50) – which looked suspiciously Glick’s like to me, which is by no means a bad thing at all. We did, however, gaze longingly at the House Baked Brioche, Chocolate Sauce and Seville Orange Marmalade ($10.50) that arrived at the table behind us. Next time, for sure.

Meatball Sub

Salami, Olive, Provolone and Nettle Melty

A couple of weeks ago I took my far too difficult to impress 15 year old brother for a bite. Incidentally, we happened to be there at the same time as two blokes some of you may know – Rene Redzepi and Mark Best. Just hanging out, drinking espresso on a rainy Friday. Whatever. My brother ummed and aahed and we eventually shut him up with a Meatball Sub – veal and ricotta meatballs, tomato sugo and grana padano ($15.50). The meatballs were so tender and soft from the ricotta, but with bags of juicy flavor and the odd fleck of sweetness from a few currants I believe. And while baristas Joe and Charles tried to corrupt him with ristys (ristretto coffees – minds out of the gutter kids), it was the cold filter that won him over (but more on that next week). I, on the other hand, was definitely corrupted by some espresso tequila and the Salami, Olive, Provolone and Nettle Melty ($14.50). A good toasted sandwich is a beautiful thing and this bad boy has it all – oozy cheese, salty salami, earthy olives and the ‘God I’m so badass’ factor of eating nettles.

Intensely refreshing, cold filter coffee

Nonna’s Sunday Roast

It’s difficult to go past Nonna’s Sunday Roast – a gorgeous combination succulent roast lamb, pearl barley, cavolo nero and little pea gnocchi type things ($17.50). This dish reaffirms a little saying I picked up when I was living in Italy: una buona nonna vale cento maestre – a good grandmother is worth a hundred teachers. I’ve also quite enjoyed the Open Lasagna of Wild Mushrooms and Polenta ($16.50), because, you know, carbs on carbs is only a good thing right? Such a generous serving too, it stopped me in my tracks – but my buddy Steve had no problem picking up where I left off.

Poached Salmon, Celeriac, Horseradish and Watercress Salad

For me, the absolute knock out item on the menu has been the Salad of Poached Salmon, Celeriac, Horseradish and Watercress ($16). Before Danny and his ‘you don’t make friends with salad’ crew come after me, this salad is a real meal and a delicious one at that. Beautiful warm salmon, combined with remoulade style celeriac, backed with some heat from the horseradish and all rounded out with peppery freshness of watercress. It is the perfect thing to eat when you know you have to go back to work and kick some ass. I’m not a huge sweets gal but there’s a daily selection of sweet and savoury muffins, as well as a pretty tasty brownie from time to time. I have also heard brilliant things about ‘Sydney’s best lamington’ but I have as yet, not been lucky enough to grab one.

The space is small and inviting, with a certain edginess in it’s art (minus the typical Surry Hills pretension). Little benches and tables are strewn haphazardly on the footpath and side alley – something I’ve heard people lament, but personally I love. Just be careful lest you trip over a hipster. There’s a fantastic energy to the place, something I think you can put down to the staff. From Japanese barista royalty and pretty ladies, to professional tap-dancers and rockabilly boys with Zappa tatts – and of course, a chef who really is just bang on the money. It’s a place that celebrates Christmas in July with mulled wine and hot ham rolls, to the backing of Tammy Wynette and a little dubstep for ‘good measure.’ Given all the media attention around this place and head barista Shoji Sasa, there are naturally a lot of people flocking to it – so you may need to wait a while for a table. But chill out, it’s worth it. Plus there’s not a tired looking salad wrap or Byron Bay Cookie Company jar in sight. #winning

I know I haven’t touched on the actual coffee side of things too much, but check back next week as I tackle the Single Origin Sideshow. Big love and thanks to Chef, Matt Rothman and Baristas Joe Cutcliffe, Charles Cameron and Shoji Sasa for keeping me caffeinated (and I daresay, sane) the past few weeks. All the ristys have given me the nickname ‘Energizer Bunny’ at work.

Been to Single Origin Roasters? What did you think? Let me know becca@thebonvivant.com.au or on Twitter @bonvivanblog. These and more photos are also now up on our Facebook. And don’t forget to come back for part two next week!

Izakaya Fujiyama

Tue, 02 Aug 2011 23:24:50 +1000

Becca Johnstone

52 Waterloo Street

SURRY HILLS

If you follow us on Twitter or Facebook, you may have read some rather rapturous/semi-delirious messages last Wednesday night. Namely about my new boyfriend. We have, however, hit a small speed bump in our relationship. There’s no problem embroidering Becca on the matching his and hers bath towels, but Izakaya Fujiyama’s Steamed Pork Belly with Hoba Miso and Eggplant simply would not fit. Perhaps it’s over before it’s begun?

All frivolity aside, I’d been looking forward to trying out Izakaya Fujiyama since it opened shop. There’s been a lot of chatter about it in the Foodie community and frankly I wanted to see if it was worth the hype. Situated in the latest trendy Surry Hills precinct, incidentally purely dedicated to share plates, Izakaya Fujiyama has some impressive neighbours. Having had a lovely meal at Orto Trading Co and all but taking up residency at El Capo on Friday nights, I was interested to see what the new kid on the block had to offer. Chef Kenji Maenaka comes from good and assuring stock (Porteno, Bodega, Four in Hand but to name a few), and what was on offer was a sumptuous array of small plates, select Japanese beers and more sake and umeshu than you could poke a stick at.

Izakaya Fujiyama is another one of those ‘no bookings’ places, so my intrepid group of diners went a little earlier than normal. Arriving at 6:30 we had absolutely no hassle getting a table for 7 people. But given the amount of people flocking to this area, and that the table behind us was occupied by ‘Jill and Terry’, I’m not sure how long that convenience will last. The space is welcoming and vibrant, all the while exuding that unmistakable Japanese elegance. There is a mix of tables and a glorious bar backed with a wall of rice and plum wines that you could gaze at, longingly, for hours.

Edamame

We settled in with some Edamame – possibly my favourite snack ever – and a few beers. I went for the Yebisu Hop which was indeed, rather hoppy, but was all too enjoyable with my salty little soy beans (and just what a gal needs on a Wednesday night). Almost instantly out came our Fried Calamari with Mayonnaise – sweet, tender and so so crispy, perfect for the fine beers we were enjoying. Then our palate hopped over to the cool and serene with the Sashimi Plate and Pickled Cucumber. We were treated to tuna, salmon and kingfish sashimi – I have been and always will be a tuna fan, and this was superb. Market fresh, tasting of nothing but the sea, I was instantly transported to a place where smugness was allowed and I could feel superior for eating something so fresh and ‘good for you.’ The cucumber, pickled in sweet ginger soy sauce was a surprise hit amongst my end of the table – a testament to Kenji’s ability to not mess around too much with quality ingredients and still create something damn tasty.

Sashimi Plate

My lovely friend Vanessa and I couldn’t go past sampling some of chef’s beautifully crafted Nigiri. I went for mackerel (feeling rather brave – I’d actually never had raw mackerel before), while Nessy opted for salmon. Raw mackerel was certainly an experience – don’t get me wrong, I love the stuff, but it is an intensely ‘fishy’ fish. It might be one that takes a little getting used to but hey a girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do. A bit of cross-culture dining presented us with the Kingfish Nuta with Tortilla. With lime-infused miso, raw kingfish and fried tortilla shards it was a rather interesting Japan-Mexico, meet me halfway ceviche. As tasty as it was, I felt it was a little confused in the grand scheme of things.

Agedashi Tofu

Agedashi Tofu is another favourite of mine and I think Izekaya Fujiyama’s was one the finest I’ve ever had. It’s a dish that is easily executed poorly, so I tend to order it with trepidation. Far too often am I served soggy, cold tofu, slimy mushrooms, swimming in a lackluster broth of some sort – all too reminiscent of having the flu as a child. Kenji’s Agedashi was full of flavour from the braised shitake and okra and the tofu was crispy, warm and truly a delight to eat. It got a pretty serious nod from my fellow diners and I couldn’t help but notice bowls of the stuff heading to just about every table in the restaurant.

Hoziakura Junmai Kimoto-Yamdanishki Sake

Things got way too real as the Sake list was passed around. I had immediate flashbacks from my birthday this year, drinking warm sake at Echo Point Karaoke around 3am. It tasted like NO! and smelled like vomit (though, in retrospect, that may have been the room). But the fighter that I am took the bull by the horns and had a try of the Hoziakura Junmai Kimoto-Yamdanishki. As someone who believes wine should be made from grapes, I was actually pleasantly surprised. It had quite a floral nose, and served room temperature it had a flavour that I could only liken to bananas. It certainly helped me get over my fear of rice wines!

KFC - Kenji’s Fried Chicken

Our evening was coming to a close and our final few dishes made their way out. We enjoyed a refreshing tofu salad with pickled daikon, carrot and mizuna, something I’m keen to try out at home actually. The hit amongst the fellas had to be the KFC – Kenji’s Fried Chicken (by God do I love a good pun!). The karaage chicken with mayonnaise was so moist, delicious and moreish, I was afraid the boys were going to come to blows over the last piece. As suggested though, my dish of the night had to be the Steamed Pork Belly with Hoba Miso and Baked Eggplant. God damn that’s a fine piece of cooking! The miso paste/sauce was punchy with a great kick of spice, the pork meltingly tender. The eggplant added a great ‘baby food’ feel to it all – which I think rocked. I mean come on, I’m willing to marry it – that’s got to say something, right?

Pork Belly with Miso

Izakaya Fujiyama certainly did not disappoint. Balanced flavours, incredible ingredients, elegant presentation – Japanese cuisine in a nutshell if you ask me. I think Kenji and the team are on to a seriously great thing here. People might lament the Izakaya style of dining (I’ve even heard people call it glorified bar snacks) – but winding down over a few drinks and some small plates is truly a beautiful thing. For those that are interested, we ate like Emperors and drank like Geishas (do Geishas drink? This one does…) and ended up paying just shy of $40 each. So go! Check it out and let us know what you think.

More photos from this fabulous meal are now up on our Facebook page if you fancy a gander. Why not ‘like’ us while you’re there? But as always you can give me a shout becca@thebonvivant.com.au or on Twitter @bonvivantblog

Brunch at 4143 at the James Barnes

Wed, 20 Jul 2011 00:46:18 +1000

Becca Johnstone

Building 9

2 Huntley Street

ALEXANDRIA (entry from 41-43 Bourke Road)

Based on my Deckhouse experience I know that when Miss Gourmet Rabbit says ‘come for brunch’ she really means ‘come for a Bacchanalian feast of wonder, don’t eat breakfast and wear stretchy pants.’ This was certainly advice I heeded when I joined some fellow food bloggers at Alexandria’s new gastro pub, 4143 at the James Barnes.

Located in the middle of industrial Alexandria, 4143 is a visually incredible space, offering a cool outdoor bar (with a banging menu to complement) and a beautiful indoor bistro. Before people start questioning the location, yes, I concede it is a little out of the way. But as I (read: my GPS) navigated my way out there on Saturday I had some time to think about it. When all the yuppies couldn’t afford to live in Newtown, they spread to Redfern. Then Waterloo. And now, Alexandria. Before you know it, Zetland will be Enmore and the high rises will overshadow plumbing supplies warehouses. I’m not suggesting Botany Road is the new Crown Street, but when you think about it, it’s merely gentrification at it’s most lucrative. Further, I was reminded of all the workers in the area. My old company used to have a warehouse just a stone’s throw from 4143 and the boys were always whining about not having a decent place for lunch! This is where I think the 4143 will come into it’s own.

Wagyu Burger and Chips

But what of the fare? Chef Peter started our day off with the most popular item on the bar menu: the fated Wagyu Burger. Premium wagyu was loaded between fluffy brioche (courtesy of Fuel Bakery) along with melted cheddar, beetroot relish, aioli and gherkins like my Grandma used to make. After staying in on Friday night drinking cheap Western Australian SSB this was exactly what the Doctor ordered! Served with a mountain of fries, at $14 I thought it was the bargain of the day – and everyone agreed, a real contender for the next Burger Wars.

Seared Scallops on Pea Puree with Chorizo

We were next treated to a couple of selections from the entrée menu at the bistro. The Seared Sea Scallops on Pea Puree with Chorizo were cooked to perfection, and while it was a beautiful dish, I felt it lacked a little bit of oomph – nothing that a sprinkle of salt and pepper couldn’t fix though I’m sure. Along with this we tried the Caramelised Onion Tart with Goats Curd and Balsamic – a classic combination of flavours, executed well. And a very generous serving (in fact, the same must be said about all the dishes) – and certainly no skimping on the goats cheese. Let’s face it, it always comes down to the cheese.

Caramelised Onion Tart with Goats Curd and Balsamic

From the mains menu we sampled Duck Breast on Puy Lentils, Spinach, and Brussel Sprouts. The duck was tasty, but the lentil and spinach mix was the star of that plate. We were also treated to some pretty tasty sides of Roast Baby Beets and Beans, Buttered Brussel Sprouts with Pancetta and Roasted Chat Potatoes with Garlic and Rosemary. I’m a fiend for al dente vegetables and for me the beets, beans and sprouts were all cooked perfectly. I felt the chats could have been a little crunchier though.

18-Hour Braised Lamb Shank En Crepinette

The dish of the day had to be the 18-Hour Braised Lamb Shank En Crepinette on Parsnip Puree with Muscatel Jus. Hot diggity it was delicious. As I said to Chef on the day, “I think I want to move in with it and see if it’s marriage material.” The lamb was tender and when you got into it out oozed a delicious spinach and parmesan concoction. Matched with sweet parsnip puree, roasted eschallots and muscatel jus it was some seriously divine eating. Interestingly, the mains menu offered a small ($16) and large ($28) serving option – not something I see a lot of these days. We were served small sizes, and I could honestly say they were no smaller than what you’d get anywhere else. This is certainly the place to eat in an abysmal economy!

Chocolate and Orange Mousse with Hazelnut Biscotti

And so we entered the magical world of desserts! By this stage I was more than willing to go home and have a little Nanna Nap, but the sweet treats twisted my arm yet again! A classic Tiramisu was definitely a crowd pleaser. The Chocolate and Orange Mousse with Hazelnut Biscotti was more than met the eye (and it was a pretty thing at that) – the inclusion of pop rocks sent our table in to fits of giggles like the naughty school kids I’m sure we all were. The mousse was thick and rich, too rich for me, but I’m not the greatest chocolate fiend. The Bread and Butter Pudding with Rhubarb and Macadamia Ice Cream on the other hand was something I had to beg my diners to take away from me before I finished the whole bowl. A perfect dish for a dreary winter’s day: the pudding wasn’t too eggy, yet quite firmly set, and alive with cinnamon and tart rhubarb. I’d encourage people to give it a go and at $10 a dessert you’ve only got things to gain – mainly calories, but that’s beside the point!

Bread and Butter Pudding with Rhubarb and Macadamia Icecream

My experience at 4143 at the James Barnes was a bit of an eye-opening one. I think it’s in an area that people overlook, but man there was some super quality food. And look, it’s about 5 minutes further down the road from Newtown, if you’re already driving what’s the harm in going that little bit further? A big thanks to the team at 4143, Denea and the good people at Dedes Group for hosting this unruly bunch.

What’s more important to you: location or quality? Let me know becca@thebonvivant.com.au or on Twitter @bonvivantblog

Lat-Dior African Eatery.

Fri, 08 Jul 2011 10:43:00 +1000

Lat Dior African Eatery

Danny Ryan

150 Enmore Rd Enmore (just up from the Enmore theatre)

9957 4467

BYOB

I have been to Lat Dior twice in the past month and seeing how I haven’t written anything for The Bon Vivant for about the length of time (– Bad Danny) I thought I should share my experiences with you, the Bon Vivant’s loyal followers/readers/twitterers.

I am ecstatic about discovering Lat Dior. This is the kind of place which you very happily call one your local haunts. This is because Lat Dior has a lot of good things going for it. Firstly, it is relatively easy to find located on Enmore Rd just up from the Enmore theatre. Secondly, the staff at Lat Dior are friendly and attentive. Finally and perhaps most importantly however is that there is a good range of traditional offerings with all the ones I have tried being incredibly delicious and terrifically priced. They don’t even mind if you bring along a bottle (or two) of your favourite drops to enjoy with your meal either!

The menu itself brings you a large array of African dishes from all across the continent with dishes tradition to West Africa sit above or below dishes from Madagascar. Typically each dish is served with what Lat Dior calls a “starter” which is normally a healthy servings of greens. It is a good foil to each of the one of the mains where greens and other vegetables are somewhat lacking. These starters are fabulous – my favourite is the green beans which are served just how I like them, crunchy and covered with spices and sauce. It is light years away from having to force your greens down as a child.

In the mains I have sampled enough of them now to have my favourites. Here are some I reckon are definitely worth a trip on the 423/426.

Varenga: A beef dish, marinated overnight in African spices and then fried. A delightful dish if I do say so myself the beef is delicately cooked and the spiciness of the dish brings it to another level

Thiou: Slow cooked chicken marinated in African spices and served with a good bit of fried onion. Not as spicy as the varenga above but served moist not overcooked at all

Ndambe Lamb: My personal favourite, cubed lamb served with Red Kidney beans and lentils. The lamb is perfect –melt in your mouth stuff with the Red kidney Beans and lentils providing good crunch to the dish. I would probably say it is a little bit spicier than the Varenga but it isn’t a hot spice it simply adds more sensation to your meal.

Other important things worth mentioning are firstly the ginger drink which is a homemade mix of freshly squeezed ginger with vanilla sugar. If you are adventurous or you just like ginger beer give this a go. Initially this starts quite sweet on the palate with the Vanilla sugar component of the drink coming to the fore but then you begin to notice a zing from the ginger come through it starts off quite small but it builds significantly from there. A definite crescendo of flavour leaving you with lasting burst of ginger well after you have finished your drink.

Overall, I am very happy to add Lat Dior to my list of regular haunts. The food is fantastic and the value can’t be beat. The last time I was there I got away with an order for a main with a starter and the ginger drink for $20 which I think is cracking value.

Obviously given I have written anything here for a month or so I would love to hear your feedback on this. Are there any other African places that you have been to across SYdney that I should visit? Let me know at my pretty new email address – I can access it on my iPad now - danny@thebonvivant.com.au

Final Tip: Bring along a bottle of cool climate shiraz to enjoy with your meal. Think of regions like Orange (NSW), Heathcote (VIC) and Great Southern (WA) the spiciness you regularly find in these particular wines should add to the overall flavour of the dishes you choose. Afterwards, head across the road for Cow Moon Gelato – The lime in the coconut Gelato is to excellent.

Winter Warmer: Lamb Shank Ragu with Black Pepper Pappardelle

Wed, 29 Jun 2011 18:52:00 +1000

Becca Johnstone

It’s cold. VERY cold. Eat this and be warm.

I should probably say a little more than that, but that’s really the whole point of this recipe. For me this is such a Sunday lunch thing. It takes a bit of time, but really not much work. Slow cooking rocks, just put it on and let it do it’s thang. Fresh pappardelle is hands down my favourite pasta. It takes me back to my time in Perugia where the local specialty was wild boar with pappardelle spiked with spicy black pepper. I’ve run with it ever since! Alas, my local butcher was out of Umbrian Wild Boar (what are they good for, really?) so lamb shanks it is. But really, who can complain about meltingly tender lamb that you could eat even if you didn’t have any teeth? Not I.

Serves 4 hungry folk.

For the pasta:

4 eggs
400g durum wheat flour + extra for dusting
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper

Make the pasta in your preferred method. For me, it’s by hand. So combine all the dry ingredients and tip them on to your surface and make a well in the center. Crack in the eggs, then gradually work the flour into the eggs until you have a dough forming. Remember, every time you work with flour you may need a little more, or a little less. So feel the way your dough is coming together and incorporate the flour gradually. I work the dough for at least 10 minutes to get that gluten working – your dough needs to have some bounce back. Once it’s at that point, wrap it in cling and let it rest at least half an hour.

After it’s rested, either roll it by hand, or through a pasta machine ensuring you laminate (fold it over on itself) at least 4 times – again to help that gluten work. Once it’s gorgeously thin, cut it in to 1 inch/3cm ribbons and hang to dry. You can dust with flour and leave in clumps, but my kitchen gets so stuffy that it usually ends up sticking together if I do that. NOTE: the broom handle was cleaned prior to use! Now take a step back and admire your speckled ribbons of wonder!

For the ragu:

4 large lamb shanks
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 sticks of celery, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
1 zucchini, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, sliced
4 anchovies
1 tsp chilli flakes
1 tbsp tomato paste
¼ cup of dried porcini, rehydrated
1 cup of full-bodied red wine
2 tins chopped tomatoes
A bouquet garnet of 2 bay leaves, thyme, parsley stalks, oregano, rosemary and orange zest strips.
1 litre of chicken stock/vegetable stock/water
Olive oil
Salt, sugar and pepper to taste
Fresh flat-leaf parsley to serve

Preheat oven to 140 degrees. Over a high heat, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in large, oven-safe pan. Season the lamb shanks well and brown. Brown them really well; this will give you super flavor in the end product. Once browned, set aside.

Drop your heat to a more medium/high level and in the same pan, cook off the onion, celery, carrot, zucchini, garlic and anchovies with a little salt and pepper. There’s no need to chop the anchovies, they will just melt into the vegetables making them extra delicious. Once the vegetables are softened add the chilli flakes, porcini (and the water they were reconstituted in) and tomato paste and cook off for another few minutes.

Add your wine and cook to burn off the alcohol – at least until it’s reduced by half. Add the tinned tomatoes and bouquet garnet and stir to combine. Allow to simmer for about 5 minutes.

Add your stock or water and stir to combine, and then add the sealed lamb shanks (plus any juices) back to the pan so they are submerged. Cover with a lid and place in the preheated oven. Allow this to cook, slowly for 2-3 hours or until the lamb shanks are falling away from the bone. Check on it every now and then to make sure it remains moist, if needed add a little water. You are after a thick, juicy sauce though.

When the ragu is cooked allow it to cool slightly before you remove the lamb shanks. Remove the meat from the bones and shred it back in to the sauce – not too finely though, you want it chunky and delicious. Check your seasoning – it usually needs some salt, pepper and a little sugar – then keep it warm while you prepare the pappardelle.

Cook the pappardelle in plenty of boiling salted water and combine with your luscious lamb shank ragu. This dish is so incredibly rich that parmesan at this point would be an absolute sin. Just some fresh flat leaf parsley and a glass of a Coonawarra Cabernet. I was lucky enough to enjoy this with a bottle of Murdock Reserve 2006 Cabernet – a beautifully layered wine with firm tannins and a great minty earthiness typical of Coonawarra.

Winter ain’t so bad, right?

What’s your favourite winter warmer? Let us know on Twitter @bonvivantblog. If you have any questions about this or other recipes just shoot me an email: becca@thebonvivant.com.au

Lotus Asian Restaurant

Thu, 23 Jun 2011 17:04:00 +1000

By Becca Johnstone

Lotus Asian Restaurant

393 Illawarra Road

Marrickville

When I see the words ‘Asian Restaurant’ or ‘pan-Asian’, I am immediately skeptical. What on earth is Asian food? I can’t think of a more diverse continent in terms of food, so I get a little worried when restaurants try to put it all on a single menu. I guess it comes down to that old saying, ‘Jack of all trades, Master of none.’ But you know me, always open minded when it comes to a meal out. So luckily, I was pleasantly surprised with Lotus in Marrickville. An invitation was extended from Charlotte Foot PR via the lovely Simon of Simon’s Food Favourites, and a group of us intrepid foodies made our way ever so slightly south of the station on a brisk Sunday night.

A little set back from the Marrickville restaurant hub, Lotus presents a mix of Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and Malaysian cuisines. We kicked our night off with a couple of starters of char-grilled lemongrass prawn skewers and Malaysian-style chicken satay. The prawns ticked all the boxes for me: sweet, tangy, perfectly cooked, a real Vietnamese treat. I could happily have polished off the whole plate myself! The satay was ok, I just felt it lacked a little punch. I say this as a hardcore Malay style satay fan, it was just missing a bit of heat if you ask me. But perfectly cooked, moist chicken so perhaps a good one for kids who are just starting to develop their palates.

Malay style chicken satay.

Next out were two salads: braised pork belly and green papaya and roast duck and lychee. The duck and lychee salad had a pleasantly strong dressing, a nice amount of duck, but I fear not very many lychees. I tend to rave about the Thanh Binh pork belly and green papaya salad to anyone who will listen, and now it’s been knocked off it’s perch. This salad is the bomb. It has amazing textures from the crispy pork, crunchy papaya and mountain of herbs and explosive flavours. A really winning dish. Everyone was generally impressed with the salads, but the hands down favourite was the pork belly. A definite must order if you make it to Lotus.

Pork belly and green papaya salad.

The fried goodies made their way out next, and this was on the form of salt and pepper squid and salt and pepper soft shell crab with nam jin sauce. The squid looked glorious, but I found it a little chewy truth be told. It was very sweet and had some nice crunch to it, but yes, just a bit too chewy for me. The soft shell crab however was bang on - crunchy and sweet, really great rich crab flavour and a spicy little dipper to go with it. It was definitely a talking point dish, it makes me want to be better at life (well, my own cooking of soft shell crab if nothing else).

Salt and pepper soft shell crab.

A very tasty chicken rendang followed, and with steaming jasmine rice, it was the perfect warmer for such a cold night - now this was one that certainly delivered on spice value. We also had a dish of braised prawns with chilli, pumpkin, lemongrass and coconut. The jury’s out on this one I’m afraid. It was perfectly edible, but I get the feeling it was just a few too many things put in a curry, saved by some super sweet and juicy prawns. And for all the different ingredients it, like the satay, seemed to be missing a little punch.

Malaysian chilli sambal prawns.

The two standout mains for me were the Malaysian-style chilli sambal prawns and the M.B.S (mushroom, bean curd and snow peas). The sambal prawns were fiery, salty, sweet and sharp, excellently cooked with some still just crisp beans - exactly how I like them. This sambal style of cooking is one of my absolute favourites and I certainly wasn’t let down. I wasn’t expecting to love the M.B.S as much as I did - something I’d probably skip over when reading a menu. But I’m so glad we got it! In fact, I’d say it was my favourite dish of the night. It was a beautifully delicate, well balanced dish, that really let the tofu speak for itself. It’s just a simple, nutritious, feel-good dish: the sort of Chinese mums make for their kids when sick, I’m sure! The mushroom, bean curd and snow peas were gently stir fried with a little oyster sauce, and not much else. I really respect chefs who let their ingredients just sing.

M.B.S.

I rarely order desserts in Asian restaurants (with the exception of cendol and sago with gula melaka if I’m going Malay), so I was interested to see what we were presented. We ordered some tasting plates to share, and a some of the fried coconut ice cream with passion fruit sauce. The tasting plate consisted of a lychee and a mango sorbet, dark chocolate truffle with raspberry sauce and black sticky rice with coconut. The chocolate truffle, while lovely, just didn’t really seem to fit for me (but I’m not a great chocolate person). The sorbets and black sticky rice however, were heavenly. Both sorbets were refreshing and rich with tropical fruit flavour and the sticky rice so moreish and warming, I just wanted a big bowl of that and my Pride and Prejudice DVDs.

Dessert tasting plate.

The crowd favourite was definitely the fried ice cream. I must confess, I’ve never been a huge fan. Whenever we used to go out for Chinese when I was a kid, my brother would always get the fried ice cream, while I went for the staple tinned lychees and ice cream. But how my perceptions were blown! Aaaahhh… so this is how fried ice cream should be? It was golden and crunchy on the outside, and rich and creamy and full of coconut flavour on the inside. I personally didn’t think it needed the passion fruit sauce, I just want to live on that dreamy coconut cloud. Just gorgeous.

Fried coconut ice cream with passion fruit sauce.

Lotus is a tricky one. The food is good and reasonably priced. But the wait time between dishes was just a bit too much - that coming down to only having one chef in the kitchen. The decor is lovely and it’s a really warm environment, but it’s a bit off the beaten track. I think it’s got the making of an absolute hit place, particularly among the locals, so if you are ever in that part of Sydney definitely check it out! A big thanks to Simon for being our gracious host, and my fellow diners, Denea, Phouc, Jen, Leona, Simon, Betty, Richard and Sara.

What do you think? Ever been to Lotus? Or are you scared of ‘Asian’ restaurants like me? Let me know becca@thebonvivant.com.au or on Twitter @bonvivantblog

El Bulli: Cooking in Progress

Wed, 15 Jun 2011 01:27:00 +1000

Sydney Film Festival Screening - 12 June 2011

Directed by Gereon Wetzel

Becca Johnstone

It admittedly doesn’t take too much to boggle my tiny little mind, but I was amazed at how easily I fell, like Alice down the rabbit hole, into this entirely surreal, gastronomic world. I was lucky enough to be invited to this film on the weekend, and even though we experienced some rather frustrating issues with the soundtrack, it was a film that left it’s mark on many of the viewers. I, like many others, have not dined at El Bulli. And given that it’s closing it’s doors at the end of this season for 2 years, to return in a completely new, relatively unknown format labelled a ‘creativity centre’, lord knows if I ever will. I’m often asked if I even want to - El Bulli seems to be something that divides the food community rather than unite. I’ve heard people say it was the best meal of their life, I have also heard reputable foodies lament it as their worst. Do people dislike it out of ignorance? Do people like it because it’s trendy? Either way, out of sheer wonder and curiosity, I don’t think it’s an invitation anyone could ever turn down. A culinary offer you can’t refuse. But I digress. Having owned the books, watched as it went from the best restaurant in the world to the 2nd, and even having attempted their ‘oh-so-2003’ spherification technique, I was definitely keen to see this film to say the least.

The film chronicles the ‘off-season’ at El Bulli, wherein the restaurant in Roses, Catalonia, is packed up, and Ferran Adria and his principal staff retire to their lab in Barcelona for the winter. The restaurant is closed for 6 months as the team experiment (in the very literal sense of the word) and ultimately create the next season’s menu. Chefs Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch are at the helm, testing and pushing and in many cases, reconfiguring the most simplest of ingredients for Maestro Adria. This is a place were dehydration, rehydration, boiling, frying, vacuumizing, freeze-drying and in turn, roasting of sweet potato to the point where it looks like the cross-section of a tree trunk is child’s play. The candid footage from their lab really shows what this phase is about: ingenuity and impressing Ferran, not necessarily in that order. Adria laments ‘we have done this before’, and instantly an idea is dismissed. I believe this really captures the essence of El Bulli’s ethos: to be the cutting edge of gastronomic innovation, not merely tiptoe around it. So the idea of repeating oneself is condemned to postmodernity - this is modernist cuisine at it’s finest.

But what of the food? I think the first reaction people will have to it is that it’s, well, strange - politely put. Take, for example, the dish ‘Oil and Water’. Look it does what it says on the tin: it is a drink, of oil and water. On it’s own, it sounds like these guys are having a laugh, no? But the meal becomes like an artist’s collection, and each element needs to be contextualised in the body of work. As part of the entire progression of the meal, the smooth, slippery texture of hazelnut oil was exactly what Adria was after. And so it becomes a dish! And while we would all like to believe it was meticulously ‘crafted’, on the first night of the new season it is accidentally served with sparkling water as opposed to still: a dish evolving serendipitously.

This film was shot in 2008, when a strong theme of the El Bulli menu seemed to be ice. From an ice bowl, with a flavoured film across the top, that you smashed into like the sugar of creme brulee (a dish of sound, texture, temperature and flavour) to a salad of baby ice cubes and tangerines that conjures images of the works of Picasso. I watched with suspended disbelief as lamb’s cartilage was shaped to resemble a fillet of fish, then cooked in a Japanese style. For me there was one truly ethereal dish - that of the disappearing ravioli, where the ‘pasta’ just vanishes before your very eyes. It really feels like a high end culinary magic show.

The film itself may not be that approachable to Joe Public. I think you need to have a genuine interest in molecular gastronomy and the work El Bulli is doing. I have a feeling the Masterchef Yummy Mummies would be bored to tears by it (and there’s nothing wrong with MCYM’s!). Unfortunately for us there were major issues with the sound - there was basically inaudible dialogue, and then occasional blasting of the xylophone soundtrack. The film was actually stopped and people were offered a refund, but given that it was in Catalan and subtitled in English, most people stayed on. An unfortunate problem that couldn’t be helped on the day, but I really noticed it when we reached the latter part of the film. During all the testing, and experimenting the lack of audio seemed almost fitting: this was a realm of concentration. But I really missed it when we were taken to the El Bulli kitchens - without the sound of a busy kitchen I really feel we lost the sense of urgency of it all. I would love to get my hands on a copy and view it as it should be.

It’s without a doubt visually stunning, and while it may seem austere it definitely has a sense of playfulness. The relationship between Castro, Xatruch and Adria is a funny one - Ferran presents as an aloof, but brutally honest Master to two eager to please apprentices. I found it engrossing, not just as a Foodie, but as a media student - but can see why it might not have a universal appeal. I do highly recommend people get their hands on it though, just to step outside of your culinary comfort zones and see what’s possible.

Rating: 3.5/5 (would have probably been a 4 from me if we hadn’t had sound dramas).

Were you there on Sunday? What did you think? Or better still - have you dined at El Bulli? Let us know in the comments below, on Twitter @bonvivantblog or email me: becca@thebonvivant.com.au

The Urban Cook - Mark Jensen

Tue, 17 May 2011 22:27:45 +1000

Becca Johnstone

A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to receive a copy of Mark Jensen’s (Red Lantern) new cookbook, The Urban Cook: Cooking and Eating for a Sustainable Future. Now to write objectively on this I must divulge two things: 1. I am a cookbook addict. FACT. So much so that at the World Chef Showcase book stall at Crave last year I managed to max my credit card in one fell swoop. 2. I am a dedicated and often (to the lament of my friends and family) passionately outspoken Slow Foodie. Not sure what that is? Have a look here. So this book had been on my radar in the lead up to it’s launch – I will read just about anything anyone has to say about local sustainable food practices (nerd alert!), but to combine that with no-nonsense recipes from a chef of Mark Jensen’s caliber – well that’s just rock and roll.

The book is a mixture of delicious recipes (naturally) and plenty of information and advice on how to eat sustainably, plus some hard truths about Australian food production standards. After the introduction it’s divided into 6 chapters: vegetables, seafood, poultry, pork and lamb, beef and veal and desserts. What I really enjoyed was that, what I believe to be, the true message of the book, the discussion of food sustainability was not just all lumped in one section for people to skip over. It started every chapter, addressing that particular food item with a great specificity. As always, the risk of this kind of content is that it may come across a bit preachy (something that both irritates me and that I’m guilty of!) – this is certainly not the case in Jensen’s Urban Cook. While it’s informative, it’s not a diatribe and he seems to be able to speak plainly and clearly to anyone picking this book up off the shelf. It doesn’t seem to be aimed at complete dunces, nor at radical food activists – it meets us all half way. Aside from the great chapter introductions, the book is also filled with little post-it like notes on the recipes such as when ingredients are in season, the history behind the dish and reminders about how eco-friendly some of the ingredients are. The images and photography are brilliant as well, not just of the dishes, but of food production and ingredients themselves.

As for the recipes, all I can really say is yum. I’ve made a few dishes from it over the month I’ve had the book and have noted a solid 20 or so more that I want to try. My favourite chapter has to be vegetables. It may sound lame but I believe there’s nothing greater than beautiful, fresh veggies at the peak of their season. It also seems to be the largest chapter, which is great because you can’t get much more sustainable than a vegetarian diet! The eggplant and mozzarella bake was rustled up last week rather hurriedly after getting home from uni at about 9pm. So simple and hearty and comforting – exactly what this weather calls for. Another success was the sautéed mushrooms with French shallots and oregano that accompanied some duck over the weekend. And I absolutely can’t wait until radishes are at their prime again to give the marinated summer radishes with currants, mint and chive dressing a go. It sounds delicious.

When it came to all the proteins I was excited to see Chef and I did some things quite similarly (always a plus in getting me to like something). For instance my absolute favourite steak is rump, I like my meat to have a bit of character! And our marinades for barbecuing were so similar it’s scary (I omit the pickled red chilli – but will definitely have to give that a go). Mark also makes the point of just how well lamb and fish sauce actually go together, a recent discovery my mother and I made over the barbecue season. And on that note, Pauline’s pan-fried lamb loin chops with lemongrass, chilli and garlic are absolutely banging.

The standout dish that I’ve put together so far though has to be the Vietnamese braised blade steak with green peppercorns. My family absolutely devoured it last week, it was seriously tasty! Vietnam is famous for it’s pepper production, and while I wasn’t able to get ahold of any Vietnamese green pepper, the one that I had added such amazing, humming heat. A heat that was still hanging around on your lips for about twenty minutes after dinner. But certainly not too hot for my chilli-wimp of a 15 year old brother to handle! But it was that fantastic balance of flavours that Vietnamese cuisine is famous for that got me – peppery heat, zingy lemongrass, fresh lime and sweet shallots all combining to create something very tasty indeed. Tick, box, winner.

My attempt at the Vietnamese braised blade steak with green peppercorns.

Do I recommend this book to others? It depends who you are. If you truly love food, or are wanting to start out with something relatively simple and tasty and also have an interest in eating truly well then this is the book for you. And while I do believe it has a place on every cooks bookshelf, it’s probably not one that the Donna Hay set are going to reach for all the time. This isn’t a book for pretty prinking and processed ingredients up the wazoo – this is a book for those that understand the connection between what we eat and where it’s come from, or at least who want to know about it. I can’t see it changing people who are set in their ways and views, but perhaps could have a great impact on the new generation of home cooks. Either way, if you love tasty food and give two hoots about the world in which we live, give it a go!

Got something to say about sustainable eating? Get amongst it on Twitter @bonvivantblog or don’t hesistate to email me: becca@thebonvivant.com.au

Mother’s Day High Tea

Tue, 10 May 2011 22:12:00 +1000

Danny Ryan

Champagne, cakes, sandwiches and scones, this year I decided to leave the books, service station flowers and gift vouchers well alone and decided to spoil my mum on Mother’s Day by treating her to High Tea. Now, I could have taken her into the city to have an afternoon of High tea at one of the city’s finest high tea establishments, but where is the fun in that? So instead of heading into town where they would charge nearly double what they would normally charge for high tea. I decided to take it on myself to put together something special for my mother on Mother’s Day.

The traditional high tea that I set out to put together contained cupcakes, finger sandwiches, scones served with cream and Jam and a pot of freshly brewed loose leaf tea. I also decided to get a bottle of Champagne for starters.

First things first, Champagne: I am of the belief that any excuse will do to crack a bottle of champagne. Now over the last year writing for the Bon Vivant I have had the opportunity to try most of the Big brand Champagnes. This time I decided to go for a bottle of Pol Roger NV, a personal favourite of mine. Firstly because it has been almost a year since the magic of Pol touched my lips and was and secondly it is deliciously rich champagne with a flavour of brioche which I thought perfect for an occasion such as this.

Tea: Now, I can’t host a Mother’s Day high tea without a proper cup of tea. It is absolutely amazing how refreshingly uplifting a proper cup of tea can be. Freshly brewed, loose lea tea served in the Ryan family’s finest china – It was an absolute delight.

First course, Sandwiches. We served up three different kinds: The three we knocked up were Chicken lettuce and Mayonnaise, Ham Cheese and Mustard and finally Tuna, Mayonnaise and Tomato. Even, I managed to get my fingers dirty and knocked up a couple of the chicken lettuce numbers. Now, these aren’t the most traditional sandwich fillings but I was happy with them. All were delicious, my favourite as always is the Chicken, lettuce and mayonnaise.

Cupcakes and Macaroons: I can be described as having a sweet tooth and I spent Saturday morning at the David Jones Food Hall procuring the finest baked goods for High Tea. The most difficult part about this was not eating them before. I purchased them before my soccer match and afterwards, believe me, I definitely wanted to sample one or two of the cupcakes. I managed to avoid temptation and the six cupcakes remained untouched. I purchased these from the Cupcake Bakery and it was the Chilli Choc and the Lemon meringue that got the seal of approval from all present. The Chilli Choc in particular was fantastic with a surprising amount of kick to it. I purchased a mix of different flavoured macaroons; each one scoffed and they were gone in no time flat. The Vanilla Bean was truly divine as was the strawberry delight.

Finally, no high tea would be complete without freshly baked scones served with Cream and Jam. My sister Penny knocked these up in no time flat and I don’t why I haven’t whipped up a batch more often. They are so simple to make! These were served at the end of the function before cards were played. Light and fluffy, covered with cream and jam it was a perfect end to a delicious bit of fun.

The Riverina: Worth a Shout

Tue, 03 May 2011 18:09:00 +1000

Becca Johnstone

These days when you mention Riverina wines, most people think of cheap, mass-produced, export tosh. Over half the wine produced in Griffith and it’s surrounds is sent abroad, with the remainder left to fight it out on the shelves with their oft preferred cousins from South Australia and beyond. Far too many consumers, be it in the wine industry or not, are very quick to dismiss Riverina wines – “Riverina you say? No thanks, I haven’t drunk cask wine since 1987.” But the fact of the matter remains, more and more Aussie wine drinkers are after affordable, good quality table wines. In this sense, the Riverina region seems to be just what the Doctor ordered. So if you’re like me and are always on the look out for a tasty mid-week drop, read on as we discover some of the Riverina’s best wines under $20.

Most people are acquainted with the three big players of the region: Casellas, DeBortoli and Westend. All three estates have a reputation (or in some cases, notoriety) for large-scale production. Through all this quantity though there is undoubtedly some quality!

Let’s start with the brand that I feel has one of the worst reputations in Australia: [yellow tail] by Casellas. The Americans are mad for it, with it’s trademark kangaroo, affordable price point and ease on the palate. And while I won’t get up and profess that these wines are all a person needs, I do feel the need to stand up for their entry level Pinot Noir. Hand on heart, I believe you would be hard pressed to find a much better Pinot for under $10. I can hear the Pinot-philes out there saying “well why would you want to?” I used to be in this camp, but was surprisingly impressed with this approachable little drop when it crossed my path. It doesn’t suggest itself as high-end Burgundy that you need to get the Riedels out for – but it certainly hits the spot on a Tuesday night as the Chinese takeaway arrives.

Moving about 5 kilometres down the road you come to DeBortoli – a name synonymous with the development of the Australian Wine industry. Given DeBortoli’s wide reach and vineyards spreading over many different regions, people sometimes forget that it had it’s humble beginnings in Griffith. Their wines run the full gamut from quaffers to super premiums. And just about everyone is familiar with their Noble One Botrytis Semillon. Sitting ever so comfortably in the $10-$15 range is the Deen Series. The Vat 7 Chardonnay is a tasty wine that I think punches well above it’s weight. Full of citrus flavours and backed up with some smooth nutty oak characters, this Chardonnay is a good example of the way in which this varietal is headed. Gone are the days of feeling as though you are sucking on a bag of wood chips (and paying for it for 3 days afterwards)! At $12.99, this wine is fresh, affordable and an absolute hit in my household during summer.

Just outside the centre of Griffith sits Westend Estate, another family run vineyard with long ties to the community and surrounds. At Westend I feel you are really picking up some Riverina jewels. One of the best value for money whites I’ve tasted in the past 12 months has come from their Richland Series. The Richland Pinot Grigio is zingy with limey acidity but balanced with lovely pear fruitiness. I managed to pick it up for a mere $8.99 and went back the next day for a case. As soon as the winter months roll around my friends know they are likely to find me head first down a bottle of the Westend 3 Bridges Durif ($18.99). Every July I spend a weekend in Griffith making salami with a group of local friends, and every July I leave with a car boot full of 3 Bridges Durif, and a credit card in need of a cup of tea and a lie down. Rich with dark berry fruits and earthy, chocolate tannins, I defy any full-bodied red lovers to deny themselves this wine.

But how can one talk about the Riverina without mentioning Botrytised wines? I don’t think anyone will contest that some of this countries best stickies are born in this region, but steering away from the Big 3 of the Riverina, there are some smaller producers who are really making their mark. From Beelgara we have the Sun-Dried Bianca Botrytis Semillon ($15/375ml bottle). What struck me with this wine was that nuttiness on the palate, an interesting and welcomed change to the full whack of sugar you can often get from poorer made Botrytis Semillons from this area. Down the road in the small town of Yenda, winemakers from Yarran Wines have produced a gorgeous Botrytis Chenin Blanc under their Leopardwood range. A rich wine with that perfect balance of honeyed sweetness, fruit and some great aromatic top notes of candied orange – it really is a joy to drink, and a wine I suspect we will be hearing a fair bit of in the months to come. I honestly think it’s a fierce rivals to the Noble One produced by their neighbours, and at almost half the price ($18.99/375ml bottle) it’s certainly worth a go.

The Riverina is an honest region for wines: it never pretends to be something that it isn’t. Affordable, good quality table wines are what it’s all about – which is certainly nothing to be scoffed at. A beautiful region with a rich Italian culture, a stigma (both on the vineyards and off), but all in all an underrated gem of NSW. By drinking Riverina wines you are supporting some of Australia’s oldest family wineries – but sentiment aside, the wines are just good value, and certainly shouldn’t be overlooked.

So what do you think? What region comes to mind when you think of good quality table wines? Get in touch becca@thebonvivant.com.au or on Twitter @bonvivantblog

Whisky Tasting: Johnnie Walker Double Black

Mon, 02 May 2011 20:25:00 +1000

Danny Ryan

With the long weekend been and gone, The Bon Vivant has been using this time to have a look at various different things and what we can bring you our readers for these cold winter months. In particular I have been cooking up a storm in the kitchen working on various different soup recipes that we can bring you as the weather gets colder. Today, however, I am bringing you something that will most definitely warm the cockles of your heart.

One of first articles I wrote for the Bon Vivant was about a Johnnie Walker master class at the CBD Cellars Carrington St Store. Here I had the opportunity to taste the 5 commercially available Johnnie Walker whiskies. Today, I am looking at a bottle of the Johnnie Walker Double Black, a whisky that was purchased for me Duty Free a few months ago and since then has now, as I have been informed become commercially available here in Australia

The Double Black is interesting, I paid approximately $60 for a one litre bottle and at that price it sits between the green label and the black label and as such, you would have to consider it as a slightly more premium version of your traditional Johnnie Walker Black Label. With that in mind, what do you get for a bottle of double Black that is about $15 -$20 dearer than your standard bottle of Black label. Unlike your standard Black Label this doesn’t come with an age statement on the bottle. For those who haven’t read my master class article or are still unsure about what the age statement on a bottle of whisky means fear not. My understanding of the age statement on any bottle of whisky is that it reflects the age of the youngest whisky used to make that particular whisky. Blended Whiskies like Johnnie Walker whiskies are made of a number of different whiskies of various ages and the age statement tells you the age of the youngest whisky in the blend. The age statement on a Johnnie Walker Black Label reads twelve years meaning that each whisky contained in the blend has been aged at least twelve years. The double black without such statement is free to contain Whisky’s that are younger than what would be in standard Black Label.

The question remains how this affects the Double Black and how the double black differs from your standard black label and the proof is always in the tasting. Now, I have been waiting a while to taste this whisky with it sitting on my shelf tempting me every day for the past three months. Cracking this for the first time was a little surprising, as it was sealed with a plastic contraption that initially made pouring quite difficult.

That being said, you Immediately you notice that the Double Black has a much more predominate smoke character to it in comparison with the standard black label. The nose gives this smoke characteristic away almost immediately and upon closer inspection even the bottle makes note of this, describing the whisky as “a rich, intense, smoky blend containing whisky matured in deep charred old oak casks”.

The nose is dominated by this smoky character but there were some interesting more subtle notes (perhaps sawdust?) Upon tasting the double black I can confirm that for me this blend is a lot smokier than the standard black label with perhaps some slightly citrus (?) notes. The flavours on the this lingers on your palate for quite some time combining the dominant smoky flavour with some more mellow vanilla flavour coupled with a toffee/Werthers original and burnt caramel.

Overall, the double black is a lot more complex than the regular black label. I quite enjoyed the smokier elements of the double black. Both the length of palate and the more subtle flavours of this contributed to much more enjoyable experience for me than the standard black label. In my opinion unlike the Black Label this can be classed as a sipping whisky and doesn’t need to be mixed with anything. If you do see it when you are flying duty free I would give it a go, especially if you do like a whisky with a smokier element to it.

1 Litre of flavour.

Feel free to shoot me an email if you have tried it or if you have any other Whiskies you can recommend. Danny@thebonvivant.com.au

Happy Easter from The Bon Vivant!

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 01:13:49 +1000

Becca Johnstone

Regardless of if you believe in/celebrate Easter or not, there’s one thing I know we all can rally behind: a mofo-ing long weekend. And an EXTRA long weekend at that! As a kid for me Easter was not just about eggs and bunnies (though to deny their presence would be a lie)… It was more often than not about spending time with my Ma and Grandma in the kitchen. Without fail, every Easter included pirags (little Latvian pillow crescents of dough filled with bacon and onion and baked), hasenorchen (German ‘rabbit’s ears’ cookies - think fried cannoli dough with icing sugar) and Grandma’s famous Easter Kringle (a gorgeous, yeasty twist chock full of dried fruits and almonds). Easter for us was about baking, fish on Good Friday and family.

In more recent years though traditions have slid. Easter for me generally concerns the Blues Fest lineup, where to get a drink on Friday night, the legendary Sunday Night parties thrown by my friend Vinni at Tatlers, and having my folks call from our hideaway the Snowy to check and make sure the house hadn’t burned to the ground/the dogs were getting fed. It has actually been years since we’ve spent an Easter together as a family - some may think of that as a blessing! But if you know me family is everything, and in honour of this momentous occasion, Ma and I plan to revive our Easter baking traditions, and perhaps develop a few ones. I’d like to think this was serendipitous, spur of the moment style creation, but knowing that my Grandma passed away only a few months ago I suspect it’s something a bit more significant than that.

I’ve been on a mission to find the perfect Hot Cross Bun recipe to add to my repertoire and I think I might just have found it! With a couple of tweaks of course! So I thought now was as good a time as any to share it with everyone. These are so easy and pretty much foolproof. Give them a go and you will have friends coming out of the woodworks this long weekend. Fact.

Just a quick note as well: Danny and I are taking a little break over Easter (even Bon Vivants need holidays too!). We’ll be back on Tuesday 3rd May with a whole host of zippy new articles! We will still be Tweetin away though, so stop by @bonvivantblog and say hi :)

This recipe was passed on to my by the lovely Reem. It’s from Taste, but I’ve swapped some fruits, added a bit more spice… because that’s how I roll.

375ml warm milk
7g/1 sachet dried yeast
60g caster sugar
60g butter, melted
1 egg, lightly whisked
675g 00 flour
1 tsp salt
4 tsp mixed spice
250g sultanas
50g mixed peel
80ml cold water
170g apricot jam

Combine the milk, yeast and 1 tbs of sugar in a small bowl. Set for 10 minutes or until yeast becomes frothy.

Combine the milk mixture, butter and egg in a jug and whisk. Combine 4 cups (600g) of flour, salt, mixed spice and remaining sugar in a bowl. Add the sultanas and mixed peel and stir to combine. Make a well in the centre. Pour in the milk mixture and use a wooden spoon to stir until just combined, then use your hands to bring the dough together.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10-15 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a bowl and cover with a damp tea towel and place in a warm, draught-free place for 1 hour or until dough doubles in size.

Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease a 23cm square cake pan (you can use a circle pan as well). Knock the dough back. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 2-3 minutes or until dough is smooth and elastic. Divide dough into 16 even pieces and shape each portion into a ball. Arrange dough portions, side by side, in the prepared pan - they should be touching. Set aside in a warm, draught-free place for 30 minutes or until dough has risen 2cm.

Meanwhile, mix the remaining flour and water together in a small bowl until a smooth paste forms. Place in a small plastic bag and snip off the end. Pipe a continuous line down the centre of each row of buns, lengthways and widthways, to form crosses. Bake in preheated oven for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 180°C and bake for a further 20 minutes or until golden and cooked through (buns are ready when they sound hollow when tapped on the base)

Turn onto a wire rack. Place the jam in a small saucepan over high heat. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until jam melts. Brush hot jam over the buns for the glaze - let’s face it, everything’s better with glaze. Serve!

Recipe thanks to taste.com.au :)

Have a great Easter everyone! See you back here in 2 weeks, but feel free to drop me a line becca@thebonvivant.com.au or on Twitter @bonvivantblog

Dedes Desserts

Thu, 14 Apr 2011 01:55:00 +1000

Becca Johnstone

Dedes Restaurant

Sydney Rowing Club

613 Great North Road, Abbotsford

There are few phrases in the English language sweeter than ‘dessert degustation’ – literally. Following on from last week at Deckhouse, the great people at the Dedes Group had us back on Sunday afternoon for Dedes Desserts: a scrumptious dessert deg at Dedes Restaurant by pastry chef Jason Langthorne. Anyone who knows anything about me at all will nod their heads when I say that I’m not one for the ‘no thank you, I’d better not…’ when it comes to desserts. In my opinion desserts can make or break a restaurant, and while I may not have one every time I’m out I will always, always read the dessert menu. And I think you can tell a lot about a chef by the desserts they produce – they always seem to come with a bit of personality (well the good ones at least!). So having checked my blood sugar levels at the door, I headed to Dedes.

What was promising to be a sun-filled Autumn afternoon quickly turned on me as I drove down Great North Road. Pesky weather gods, raining on our parade (this really is a pun blog this week – apologies). While this didn’t at all affect the ensuing deliciousness, it did make for some pretty interesting dashing to and from the car. Sydney Rowing Club was alive with people, so much so that the more than ample (I would have thought) carpark was full to the brim. Luckily there’s plenty of street parking, but take note: Sundays at Dedes = uber busy.

I sat down and got chatting to my fellow bloggy diners: organiser, Denea Buckingham of Gourmet Rabbit, Mr and Mrs Gourmantic, Simon of Simon’s Food Favourites, Miss Gastronomous Anonymous, Becca of Inside Cuisine, John of He Needs Food and Ms Spicy Ice Cream herself, Lisa. I was met with a little, unexpected, ray of sunshine from the menu. Our day was kicking off with a hot and cold seafood platter! On the cold side of things we had smoked salmon, marinated octopus, prawns and some gorgeous end of season Wallis Lake oysters (definitely a highlight). In the hot arena we were presented with enormous barbecued prawns, salt and pepper lobster tail, baked barramundi, grilled scampi, ‘Horseback’ prawns, salt and pepper squid and the most enormous chips I’ve ever seen. The ‘Horseback’ prawns were an interesting take on Angels on Horseback – they were wrapped in prosciutto and then deep-fried. The baked barramundi was absolutely divine, proving an old theory – with seafood this good, the little you do to it the better! But I’m a prawn girl at heart and my favourite had to be the barbecued monster prawns! So sweet and juicy with a great flavour from the grilling – yum!

Like last week, Yiayia couldn’t help but look after us so prepared some chicory and snake beans from her garden – to make sure we kept our cholesterol in check (thanks Yiayia). Cooked with olive oil and lemon they were a lovely addition. Our seafood platters were served with the Watershed Shades Unoaked Chardonnay 2009. I must confess, I don’t have a good relationship with unwooded Chardies (if I want a Sauv Blanc, I’ll drink a Sauv Blanc). While it did work well with the seafood, I would’ve loved something like a new vintage Hunter Valley Semillon, or perhaps a crisp Margaret River SSB. But like I said, it certainly didn’t do the seafood an injustice – I’m just a bit funny with my wines!

After demolishing two enormous platters between the 9 of us, we moved on to what we all really came for: desserts! First out was a strawberry crème brulee with vanilla bean shortbread. This was matched with Moet and Chandon NV (don’t mind if I do!). There’s not much more satisfying than cracking into crème brulee. This was divine - silky and smooth, with a nice sweet sour hit from the strawberries and melt in the mouth shortbread. Perfectly matched with the Moet as well – it really picked up those strawberry notes. Oh boy we were off to a great start…

Immediately following was a chocolate lover’s dream: chocolate truffle dacquoise, almond praline and Turkish Delight ice cream. Not being a huge chocolate dessert lover, my ears immediately perked up at Turkish Delight ice cream. This delicious concoction put my home efforts to shame, so much so that I proudly declared that I wanted to buy a gallon of it. It worked beautifully with chocolate and I loved the sweet, crunchy praline. Matched with a cool and refreshingly naughty Frangelico frappe it was a dream – in fact the best match of the day I believe.

Chocolate truffle dacquoise, almond praline, Turkish Delight ice cream.

The next dish was the crowd favourite of the day I belive. It was a zingy flourless citrus cake with lemon semi-freddo and orange caramel. In between the layers of cake was a gorgeously tart lemon curd that really elevated the dish to another level. It really got your tastebuds going this one and I could have happily demolished the whole thing. It was matched with a piccolo latte of Vittoria Cinque Stelle espresso, but as I’ve given up coffee for lent (#fail) I stuck to good old English Breakfast tea, which was just the ticket.

Flourless citrus cake with lemon semi-freddo and orange caramel.

What came next was a total punk-rocker of a pud and my favourite of the day: baked rhubarb tart with cinnamon crumble and toffee apple ice cream, gloriously adorned with a pulled sugar shard that caught the light and was just far too glam to eat! In all fairness, they had me at rhubarb tart (someone may have made a few ‘your mum’s a rhubarb tart’ jokes, and why yes, yes she is). The rhubarb was sharp and balanced well with the sweet ice cream and crumbly pastry. And it was definitely a dessert with the wow-factor: beautiful and familiar flavours and superb presentation. It’s worth coming back to Dedes for this dish alone.

Is that Siouxsie Sioux? Oh no wait it’s a delicious rhubarb tart…

We were well and truly past the point of full when out came mint tea, chocolate truffles and yet another treat from Yiayia – her secret recipe pumpkin pie with handmade filo pastry (impressive much?). Yet again affirming my beliefs from last week that Greek grandmothers are the bees knees, and that the Dedes Group is a true family affair that specialises in those personal touches. In fact the first thing you are greeted with when you walk in to Dedes is Yiayia’s Greek Easter Bread, in all its golden and ruby glory. It fills you with the warm and fuzzies, and there are not many places in Sydney that I can say do that nowadays.

Yiayia’s Greek Easter Bread

So a big thankyou to Denea, Kelly and the team at Dedes for showing us foodies a brilliant afternoon of superb seafood, delicious desserts and a whole lotta love.

Are you a dessert person? What’s you’re fave after dinner sweet treat? Get in touch on Twitter @bonvivantblog or email me becca@thebonvivant.com.au

Morning Brunch

Fri, 08 Apr 2011 10:55:30 +1000

Winter is slowly closing in on us. I am now leaving work and it is dark. Not good. With all this colder weather about to hit us, I fear for my Saturday morning breakfast ritual. As always a big breakfast and a very large, strong coffee will always be a 5 star hangover cure for me, but with the cooler weather ahead I am thinking that I will probably start spending more time in bed rather than head out for a nice hearty breakfast. Today I thought I would have a look at a couple of the places that have kept me well fed and have helped shake off the effects of the night before.

Marrickville Rd Café with Internet Access

212 Marrickville Rd

A onetime favourite haunt of Mr. Paul I McMullen, this has quickly turned into my local as well. For a long time I have been torn between eating here and at The Post Café further up the road. Over time however, the shorter walk from my house and the great food and service have won me over. Genuinely great coffee and food, here you can sit inside or out in the sun and enjoy yourself while you watch the world go by.

Love it: So close to my house – perfect after I spend the previous night doing my best Charlie Sheen impersonation

Hate it: Saturday Morning Cyclists. – Everywhere and they take up the entire outside dining area. Plus like all cyclists they look silly.

Must try: - Breakfast Burrito – Delicious;

Clipper Café

Glebe Point Rd Glebe

Just up from the corner of Glebe Point Rd and Parramatta Rd. Clipper Café has seen a few Bon Vivant Staff meetings as well as a few Saturday/Sunday morning visits from Mr. D. Ryan. Again it was Mr McMullen with his partner in crime Conrad Van Coller who shared this little gem with me. It can be a bit noisy at time but is a very cool place to just hang out.

Love it – Relaxed and very cool vibe.

Hate it- Big tables. Firstly, I don’t really like to share anything and at a café I do want my own space to read the paper, do the crossword and talk to my friends without fear of being eavesdropped.

Must Try – Big Breakfast

Luxe Bakery

194 Missenden Rd Newtown (just down from the Marly Bar)

For some reason or other I have never been super sold on King Street’s Coffee credentials. With the exception of the Old Fish Shop Café, I would almost never catch up with anyone for Coffee in Newtown, until now. I visited Luxe earlier this upon recommendation from a friend and did so without resident Bon Vivant Awesome-O* Becca J and upon telling her she was absolutely furious. I can tell you this is completely understandable, the coffee is amazing and the baked goods make you stack on the kilos just by looking at them.

Love it: -Finally a great place for coffees in Newtown.

Hate it: Again you have to share seats with other people – made worse by people saving seats for nonexistent friends.

Must try: Coffee and all the baked goods

Hopefully, that gives you all something to think about next time you are out and about. I would always love any recommendations you, the Bon Vivant readers may have. Let me know.

*Officially, Becca’s title here at TBV is Staff writer, Editor, Web designer, Promotions and Marketing manager, Head of Strategy and all round Awesome-O.

I have a new email address: You can send me stuff directly – Danny@thebonvivant.com.au – Pretty cool huh?

Social Media Brunch at Deckhouse Cafe

Tue, 05 Apr 2011 19:24:00 +1000

Becca Johnstone

Clarke Road

Woolwich Dock

I have no shame in admitting I’m a brunch kind of girl. So when Denea of Gourmet Rabbit invited me along to the Social Media Brunch at Deckhouse Café, I had no qualms in responding with a speedy ‘see you there!’

Sydney turned on the perfect Autumn morning as I made my way towards the water at Woolwich. The Deckhouse Restaurant and Café is certainly in a to die for location on our gorgeous harbour. The sun was blazing and the view of the Bridge and city just mesmerising. But I wasn’t here to sight see, I was here to brunch… and by God did we brunch!

Arriving at the Deckhouse Café veranda I heard one of my favourite words: Mimosa? Why I don’t mind if I do! We sipped our Jansz Cuvee cocktails and chatted all things food, wine and social media before we got under way.

As we took a seat, event and marketing coordinator Barb let us know a little more about our venue. Deckhouse is owned by the family run Dedes Group, headed by Con Dedes. Dedes Group has been operating in the food industry for over 30 years now and is synonymous with excellent service and premier venues.

As Barb wrapped up, our lovely waiter for the day, Tom, brought out our first treats. I have a love/hate relationship with granola. When it’s good it’s really good, when it’s bad I’m a sad camper. Luckily the granola on offer by Deckhouse was sweet from the berry compote and lush strawberries and perfectly balanced with tart and creamy yoghurt. A great start to anyone’s day really. Alongside this came what I had to tweet as ‘impending deliciousness’ – a wild mushroom and feta tart. It certainly was delicious; the naughty to the granola’s nice.

Next came out a trio of salads that were quite welcomed on what was becoming a rather hot morning on the veranda. Most of my fellow diners were oohing and aahing over the piri-piri prawn salad and the (admittedly divine) soft shell crab salad, but I happened to run in to a very dear old friend of mine. Fancy seeing you here haloumi! Haloumi salad can be boring at the best of times, but this was a real firecracker! Haloumi, with smoked apple and olives – seriously yum. So yum in fact I made it myself for lunch today! I didn’t have the time to smoke my apple, but stewing it with a little honey and olive oil does the trick, as does adding in a handful of hazelnuts! This salad is an absolute winner and a really hearty, tasty, healthy lunch.

What came next was a real treat, and something that definitely spoke to the family nature of the Dedes Group. Con’s mother, aka Yiayia, arrived with a selection of treats she had made just for us that morning. I’ve known for a while now that Greek grandmothers are awesome, but this was the icing on the cake! Crisp, flavourful spanokopita, and a couple of other pites – one I believe was tyropitakia but I could be showing my Greek ignorance there. It’s a flavour packed little empanada type thing – entirely addictive. We also received an incredibly inviting dish of pastizio (dare I say, a Greek lasagne) – I felt it could’ve used a little more salt, but it certainly aided in making me feel welcome, like I was in my mother’s kitchen! Efharisto yiayia!

We were full to the brim. It was that time of the day where we all needed a little sleepy. But oh no, there was even more eating to be done! Deckhouse has built a little bit of a reputation for its fish and chips, recently winning an award for them! But they are insistent on being more than a ‘fish and chip stop’, which is fair enough. But with fish and chips this good it’s worth singing it from the rooftops. They were so golden and tasty looking none of us could say no! They were certainly worth the food coma that ensued.

A favourite amongst Woolwich locals, it strikes me as the perfect place for a function. With a couple of my friends getting married later this year I immediately think wedding reception – it’s just gorgeous. The café has a bit more of a relaxed vibe that’s for sure, and given the very cute ‘poochie parking’ I have definitely found a new place to walk my puppies and stop for a coffee!

All in all it was a marvellous morning of great food and even greater people. It was an absolute pleasure to meet some savvy social media minds and they must get an oldschool shoutout: Tony, Lori, Tricha, Nancy, Kerry, Iggy, Simon, April, Leona, Alvin and Lisa. You guys are stars! As much as I raved about that haloumi salad, the highlight for me were the treats from Yiayia – personal touches like these are what the food industry are missing. Thankyou immensely to Con, Barb, Tom, Denea and all the fabulous people at Deckhouse for taking such darned good care of us!

Been to Deckhouse lately? What did you think? Let us know by commenting below or get involved on Twitter @bonvivantblog